Niall Clerkin

November 12th, 2009

Some things just have to be put down as experience. Night buses can be such a thing. Night buses from Ninh Binh are such a thing. Most travellers get the bus from from Hanoi to Hue, and as such have a fighting chance of getting a decent seat-bed. As we got on in Ninh Binh we had last call, the worst beds, in the communal sauna at the back of the bus. I know kids you are all thinking that sounds very swedish and perhaps a little naughty, but when you are squeezed between the sweatiest Englishman in existence with a penchant for rolling over and spreading his limbs and some English lass with no concept of boundaries, on the rear axle of an absolute crap bucket of a bus, there is little appetite for naughtiness.  And no chance of sleep.

 

We put ourselves through this to get to Hue. Why? It is the former Imperial capital with Palaces, Temples and a Citadel (sacked in both wars), a place rich in history with an excellent culinery reputation, set on the banks of the Perfume river. Who wouldnt want to go? (and our guide book told us to go there).

 

The first thing in every new town (for myself & Elaine at least) is always Food. Our guidebook which is pretty poorly researched in my opinion, described a cafe with great cheap food and a serious line in photography. We got checked in and headed off to see Mr Cu.

 

 

 

 

 

 
This cafe is a wonderous experience, over 3 visits to it in the next few days we became family. The walls are decked out in Mr Cu’s photographs, all locally taken (he grew up un the Perfume River) and not without great skill. He has a knack for catching the light just right, the people unaware and the action just when he should. A quiet apologetic man, he is familiar with coo-ing tourists but still seems embarassed by his relative fame. On hearing about the photography bug in my family he immediately gave us free postcards & free prints (”For your father”), I bought some too of course. The food is fantastic and the best value we have had to date on our trip. Mr Cu has many hidden delights to share such as his own map & walking tour of the citadel. We elected to follow this route the next morning after great breakfast & great coffee. Have a sour vegetable soup for breakfast and you’ll never go kellogs again.

The walking tour is a nice relaxed way to spend 4 or 5 hours. Myself, Elaine & Andy (whom we had met in Hanoi and bumped into again) set off about 10am with our cameras at the ready, cruelly inspired by portaits we would never be able to match. The route is around the Citadel, into the remains of the Imperial Palace, through the Markets and onto a section of the river where some river people still live.

The Imperial Palace must once have been amazing, with multiple palaces for Mandarins and their families, the Royalty, and servants, within a large area enclosed by 3 metre thick walls. Beyond the walls the town within the Citadel, again walled and then surrounded by a 20 metre moate. The wars here did much damage to the Citadel and Palaces and 85% of it is razed. What is left is still very interesting, and I was happy to see there is lots of building work going on, with a full restoration the eventual aim. Beyond the Palaces the 3 of us walked around the old town and along the Perfume River and took a few snaps.

We hired bicycles another day, to take us out of the city and free wheel it through the vietnamese countryside. Without any set destination and a minimal map, we figured if we kept turning left, we’d get back to Hue again. Early on it became apparent that my bicycle wasn’t up the job, the chain kept slipping and then started coming off. I deftly turned my bike upside down on the roadside and started freeing the chain. Just as I started to replace the chain on the rear cog I heard small voices and small hands started taking over. 3 or 4 girls, all under 10 I’d guess started pushing me away from the bike “No Mister, No Mister” and simply took over fixing my bike, which they acheived much quicker than I would have done. Then they hopped back on their own bikes and pedalled away. Madness.

Anyway we cycled back and I traded up my bike and set off again. We travelled a good distance in the midday heat and enjoyed being out in the country immensely. We saw lots of little houses,  some larger more splendid specimens, old grave yards, forests and fields. How exciting. If we had have had lashings of ginger beer and a sheepdog it could have been an Enid Blyton.  On our return route, as recommended by a randomer on a moped who stopped to talk to us, we came across a smoking pagoda with the sounds of chanting floating out to us atop the smoke. In reality they were burning leaves but the effect was much more atmospheric than my photo suggests.

An elderly Monk outside motioned us to enter, but wearing shorts and sleevless t-shirts we didnt think we were appropriately dressed (not a chance in Thailand). The monk insisted and we entered the gardens. He continually motioned us up to the temple and staggering with his stick for balance, went looking for someone. A young smiling monk appeared, in white rather then the orange robes we were used to. He spoke a little English and insisted on taking us into the Temple. The clothes were ok, but no shoes as usual. Inside the temple there were 5 young inductees (from 4yrs through to 14yrs). They were chanting & singing and smiled shyly at us. Each knew there part in the complicated chant, a little like a “round” if anyone remembers childhood singing games. It was beautiful and serene. 

Outside the young monk was waiting for us with 3 bananas. 1 apiece. I guess we broke bread together, it was a lovely experience.

Further on, and closer to town I took lots of random photos as I was freewheeling down streets with scooters and bikes ahead of me, thinking they might give a feel for the place, but they didnt work out at all. Sorry folks. When we reached town, Elaine who was slightly behind me blurts out ” Holy Catholic Church” and sure enough there was a monster of church on thew hill (aern’t they always) dominating this part of Hue. Of course she wasn’t showing a heretofore unseen religous side she was just saying “Holy Cow!!!!”.

It was actually quite nice inside, not like any church I’ve been in and of course a great contrast to the the little Pagoda. That evening we broke from Tradition and ate at “Ushi’s”. Thank you Ushi. Another brilliant restaurant with shrimp & pork with flour steamed in banana leaves, rice pancakes, steaming brothy soups. Everyone in Ushi’s was raving about the great food and as a result everyone was smiling. A great atmosphere.

We met lots of good people in Hue and every experience was a good one. Great food, pleasant company and an interesting backdrop. It’d have been nice to stay longer.

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